Emerging from the airport, the heat rolls over you at 10pm in this dusty, noisy city. We were picked up by our lovely driver who kindly helped us with some basic Arabic phrases, restaurant recommendations (really good) and a fast trip to our Airbnb. It really set the tone for our trip as we slowly came to realise Egyptian people are very friendly and kind.
We arrived at our rooftop apartment, balcony covered with grape vines, cute kittens snuggled into sofas and the moon shining down. Sitting outside just listening to the honking horns, distant chanting of the nearby mosque, enjoying the magic of Egypt!
Are you ready? Lets Explore Cairo!
(If you want to read about Giza we have made a separate post to come.)
Egypt is a very welcoming country with lovely people. Cairo is a very busy city so I’d advise you to ease into it!
We spent our first two days enjoying the museums in the morning (try to get there early) with afternoon naps and evening walks through markets and stalls, enjoying the chaos, lights, constant honking and offers of help or welcome to Egypt. In spite of everything we had been told or read we found Egyptians in Cairo to be welcoming, courteous and quite open. A few offers of taxis, shoe shines, street vendors were easily waved off or said no to, and they didn’t bother us further.
We actually got asked for photos a few times, and people we took photos of never asked for tips. My favourite was several times being randomly asked if we needed any help by strangers on the street, random motorists etc who thought we might be lost. No offers of taking us to stores. When I said no, they would smile and say “Welcome to Egypt!”
Table of Contents
Top 6 Things to Do in Cairo
National Museum of Egyptian Civilisation (NEMC)
A brand new shiny museum just opened on the 3rd April 2021, and showcases a short history of Egyptian civilization, from the ancient Egyptians up until modern day leaders. Definitely visit this museum first. It’s a great overview and has a huge mummy exhibition giving you a glimpse and overview of the famous rulers and their contribution to this ancient civilisation.
I would definitely recommend it, as its quite a fun, short overview with airconditioning you can see it in about 1.5hrs, great for parents with kids!
There is a great underground mummy hall where you learn about Ancient Egyptian history by seeing 20 Pharaoh mummies in dynastic order. Its really quite creepy and fun. In particular it was amazing to see Ramses III the warrior king, and Queen Hatshepsut who died in her 60s back then. Also the beautiful Ahmose-Nefertari (died in late 17th Dynasty around 1500 BCE) with her beautiful braided hair still attached is really amazing.
The Egyptian Museum
Also known as The Museum of Egyptian Antiquities – or the old museum!
Built in the 1700s it is the oldest archaeological museum in the Middle East and houses over 170,000 artefacts.
The museum is a wonderful dusty walk back in time. It felt like I was back in Howard Carter’s Egypt, an old Elizabethan building partway falling down, with dusty relics from old digs filling every corner and cranny. Treasures still in packing crates, many not labelled in English or just not labelled at all, peeking out behind other statues, or stuck in corners.
However there are multiple treasures worth seeing even if museums aren’t your thing (shock horror!).
The treasures of Tutenkhamen’s tomb reside here and are not to be missed. We both got a little emotional at the sight of his famous death mask. The workmanship of his grave goods was just beyond anything I’d expected. I found myself wondering what Howard Carter felt when he saw the gold bracelets, brooches, coffin and grave goods….and what the other more wealthy Pharaohs would have been buried with if their graves hadn’t been looted all those years ago…..
Many of the Giza pyramid grave treasures are here such as the Death Mask of King Amenemope (completely gold), statue of Khufu a pharaoh who built the Great pyramid of Giza. Plus a small gallery of animal mummies (cats, dogs, snake and alligator!).
Top Tips: Try to get there earlier in the day before the tourist buses unload (around 11am). I’d recommend getting a guide to show you the top areas, there weren’t many English signs once you got out of the main tourist areas. The rest of the museum is amazing and I recommend taking your time, maybe bringing a snack or two and just exploring and enjoying it!
https://www.egyptianmuseumcairo.com/egyptian-museum-cairo/
Tentmaker Street
A lovely covered street with bright blankets, and old Bedouin style tents.
The sellers were so curious and love a good chat, so we struck up a conversation with the lovely Mohammed who sold hand embroidered rugs and blankets, that his family had made. Beautiful birds of Egypt, Nile river scenes and more. Whilst we didn’t buy anything it was great to make a friend and meet his very shy 8 year old son. Soon we wandered up the street past many mosques right up to the famous El Khalil Market.
El Khalili Market
A riot of colour, noise, hustle and bustle of crowds, sink into it, and enjoy the smells and jostling and offers to sit for coffee, or tea!
Have a chat and don’t be worried just tell them looking is free and if you don’t want it say La (no in Arabic) and Shukran (thank you).
Greg keeps getting mistaken for a local but they aren’t sure as he is quite tall! Although he got asked for photos with a local fabric seller!
Great restaurant in El Khalil, it’s quite expensive but there was live music when we went. Grab a table and enjoy the sounds of traditional music (it’s a little jangly!).
Cats are everywhere, there is an old saying that you can tell a group of people by how they treat stray cats. I notice there are many strays dogs and cats and many stalls have bowls of milk or water on the ground, sometimes even putting out scraps for them.
The Hanging Church & St George's
Within the fortress of Babylon stand the Hanging Church, and other Judeo-Christian holy places. The Hanging Church is the first Coptic Christian church, mostly made of wood and has a great history reaching back to the Roman period. Its an interesting historic place, also spend time checking out the beautiful courtyard wall mosaics, and you might catch the Bishop chilling on the balcony blessing a trendily dressed teenagers and families like we did!
St George is a lovely round Greek Orthodox church from the 10th Century also within the fortress of Babylon. The ceiling is beautiful!
Also do check out the gorgeous graveyard opposite, the Roman tower and nearby synagogue.
Madrasa Mosque of Sultan Hassan
Sultan Al-Nasir Hasan was known for his extravagant spending, he carefully picked his own people to put them in positions of power and spent fortunes on women, buildings etc, but many discontented Emirs sided with his brother and put him in jail for 3 years. He spent his time studying, then upon leaving jail managed to retake the throne and start construction on this mosque during the Black Plague!
Started construction in 1357CE the work continued for 3 years, every day despite the plague. The Sultan was finally assassinated but his body was never found and his mausoleum in the mosque remains empty to this day.
Tips in Egypt
Safety
We always felt safe, even when I travelled the metro by myself, there is a women only carriage (which I missed first time). I got a lot of curious looks but I was covered shoulders and knees and felt quite safe.
Walk Everywhere!
Walking is lots of fun, the streets are alight with life, huge tables of ripe fruit, mangos (3 different varieties), custard apple, grapes, apples etc, bakeries with fresh bread coming out of the huge ovens on the street, chickens, and ducks sitting on top of their cages (technically free range?). Combined with the precaious walking route sometimes on pavement, sometimes in the street narrowly avoiding cars and TukTuks we felt so alive.
Do try the mango juice you can get from the street stalls, it is actually squished mango with pulp served ice cold on a hot day it is super delicious.
Get a ESim or Sim Card
Get a Vodafone SIM card, or Orange they have much better cheaper rates (Take your passport). But if like me you need an esim because your iPhone only handles one sim (argh) then be prepared to pay. Try Airalo it’s got the best esim deal I could find but it’s not cheap.
Dress for Women & Men
As we all know, please be respectful when not in your own country. Women cover your shoulders and your knees it is just common courtesy. You don’t need to cover your head many women do not. My tip is to get a light linen shirt to go over any tank tops, it can also go over your t shirt as air con is icy! Light shawls are good too.
Shoes? it’s a dusty city but my sandals were fine, many people prefer sneakers as the pavements can be broken or have sand on them.
Taxi's
Taxis we found are pricier than an Uber but not that much more. We always started bartering based on the Uber price and usually found a good inbetween. No one tried to rip us off crazy: it was only the difference of a few dollars or pounds so don’t worry too much.
Also cars honking their horns means
- I am a taxi, do you want a lift?
- Car in front move!
- Hey its my friends! Wave to me!
Quite funny really. Add the mosque call to prayer, people yelling and it can get quite chaotic!
Street crossing
Cairo is busy!! So as in Vietnam or any other crazy city, wait for a gap and cross slowly and deliberately – no fast movements – cars will avoid you. If you’re unsure, cross with a local. And remember to be firm, deliberate and move with purpose. You can do it!
If you get lost!
Don’t panic. Ask a local. Show them a map. They will try and I’m sure you will be fine ; )
Top Place to Eat
Sobhrey Kaber restaurant
If you want bbq meat where the locals go, come here. We made friends with the Manager who spoke English and gave us English menus and great recommendations.
You just get the Molokhyia, not only is it served with amazing skill it is also delicious. Made of jute leaves (like spinach) and garlic it’s delicious!
We are till we were stuffed, then had the knafer for dessert this is a type of fried string dough with sugar and topping mangos or chocolate. Omg omg omg. It’s huge and we were pushed into taking it home, afterwards we gave it to a poor kid who was begging and his eyes lit up when he saw it.
He told us this restaurant started by a famous chef holds 3000 people!, it gets crazy busy on Thursday and Friday (so avoid) but rest of the week they are open and love having tourists. It was all locals when we visited and smells of the meat, the food and service made it a fun evening.
So that wrapped up our adventures in Cairo (Giza is another story!)
From Cairo we headed onwards to our CRUISE DOWN THE NILE. Stay tuned!
If you have any questions or comments we’d love to hear from you, you can email us at jadeandgregtravel@gmail.com or comment below!
