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From Oaxaca to Zipolite
We travelled via ADO bus from Oaxaca to Zipolite. Opting for the long 9hr journey in comfort – after reading horror stories about winding roads, cramped spaces and throw up on the shorter 6-7hr collectivo journeys.
Comfort is good, although the windy roads still made us a bit sick, however there was enough leg room for both Greg and me! Wow! #tallpeopleproblems
Bad News – Blockade
At our lunch stop we had some bad news from the driver…..in Spanish. Now we’ve been practicing but my espanol does not match a fluent speaker talking about a problem on the road. I managed to hear blockado (blockade not bandito as Greg thought!) – a blockade of some sort of village protest.
So we waited in hammocks in the shade of a lovely jungle courtyard of the restaurant. Making friends with other gringos. Hoping that we didnt have to stay the night here….but 1hr 45min later we were back on the road.
Zipolite
Zipolite has one reputation to Mexicans, it’s a nudist beach. It’s really clothing optional, not complete nudist beach. We didn’t feel the need to share our bodies with the world, as it’s kinda awkward when others are clothed around you. But plenty of older tourists felt fine….I just had to stop my eyes being drawn to a certain swinging appendage. Eyes up!!
Our first morning was broken by the sound of angry swearing, “fuck off!……..fuck off, fuck fuck fu…..ck off,”. The neighbours parrot was yelling to all passers by it was hilarious!! Every so often it would have a fit of apoplexy “fuck fu fu fu fuckoffffff!”. So funny!The beach was 20m away, and beautiful, a long bay with little restaurants, camping places and bars. They weren’t intrusive and didn’t spoil the beauty of the beach. They did provide hammocks and umbrellas for shade for a daily price or a drink.
Main Street of town was a 15min walk along the beach and our first night was magical. It’s filled with artists, hippies, musicians, dogs and travellers with blankets laid out selling jewellery, carved pipes and clothes. Behind them are simple open air restaurants, comedors, and chilled cafes. It’s a quick 7min walk all along, but the atmosphere at night is magical! Made me think of Joni Mitchell’s song California, with sandy feet, going to cafes, hearing music and living simply.
Sunset walks, grilled fresh pescado (fish), camarones e pulpo en ajo (grilled prawns and octopus in garlic), afternoon snoozes in hammocks, reading books on the beach, and watching starry skies. We didn’t do much because that’s why you’re there!
The only downside was somehow I got very bitten by sea life and Greg got heat rash -ahh life!
We could see why so many people come here and then just don’t leave, we didn’t want to either! But the road beckons and soon we found ourselves in a taxi heading to Huatulco….
Accommodation
We stayed in the most awesome treehouse owned and built by Corinna and her late husband, both Belgian ex-pats. It was quirky eccentric and beautiful, I loved our private hammock and open bathroom! Corinna has two Mexican hairless dogs, one of which has a white Mohawk totally natural and awesome!
Eating
Tip: Try all seafood parillada (grilled) With ajo (garlic) and mantequilla (butter). Mmmmm!
Grilled fresh pescado (fish), camarones e pulpo en ajo (grilled prawns and octopus in garlic), are my favourites.
Our suggestion is to walk along the main street and sit somewhere that smells good!
Top Tip: We tried to go to the recommended top restaurant, but it was a real disappointment. Dont go to the fancy restaurants with big prices, they are not worth it and you will waste your money. Out here the best food is cooked in a shack straight from the sea, and fresh. Enjoy!
Farewell Zipolite – we could’ve stayed much longer!
